A bit of fresh air and a garden of art
A mere nap ride on the bus, and I was suddenly surrounded by the sound of cicadas instead of waves and I was breathing in the smell of trees instead of salt water. St-Paul-de-Vence is only about an hour away from Nice on line 400 bus (and only 1 Euro, of course) but it feels as if you’re in a different world, a summer camp instead of a beach resort.
While the actual medieval village of St-Paul-de-Vence was, predictably, old and quaint, I was much more pleasantly surprised by the Maeght Foundation. The modern art museum is situated on the outskirts of town, including a bit of an uphill hike from the nearest bus station. However, the open-spaces architecture of the museum and its location smack dab in the middle of the forest–oh, and the actual art–makes it well worth a visit.
One of the coolest parts about the museum is that well-known painters and sculptors collaborated with the architect to create a space that isn’t just about the paintings hanging on the wall. Art and inspiration is integrated into the place itself, like a mural mosaic by Chagall and stained glass by Braque.
The museum is also multi-level and outdoor, to quell the notion of a museum being a boring open room–and it works. Instead of just wandering through one hall after another, you can look at paintings from a birds-eye view on your way up to the rooftop terrace and get a breath of fresh air before continuing on to the special exhibit. Sprawling views of the hills of Provence are a refreshing break from panoramas of the sea.
And the art? An impressive collection for a private foundation. It’s a great selection from modern and contemporary artists, from the 20th century and beyond. There are special monographic and/or thematic expositions organized regularly.
It costs 14 Euros, with a reduced price of 9 Euros for students, under 18s and groups. There’s an extra 5 Euro cost to take photos in the museum, although I didn’t see anyone enforcing the rule. Overall? If you need a break from the beaches, the Maeght Foundation and perhaps lunch and a stroll through St-Paul-de-Vence is the perfect solution.
